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22-Jun-2017 19:12

We have scoured the internet to find the most popular random chats and brought them all together for you in one place.Now you can enjoy cam to cam video chat on many different platforms all on the same site!If you want something different, feel free to go to the "Need a Custom Design? I follow the "common chamber" and "common port" philosophy, meaning one chamber for all of the subs and a single, large port.This has been proven to be more efficient (louder), and takes up less space than going with a chamber and port for every subwoofer.

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Within the port itself, I will throw in a 45* piece in the corner(s) in order to keep the port width the same at the turn in the port.

This helps facilitate smooth air flow, which makes for a slightly more efficient (louder) port. It isn't going to ruin the sound of your woofer(s).

The 45's are there to simply aid the people who can make those cuts, in order to help them get the most out of the design. With most pre-fab boxes, and even some custom boxes, you don't get any bracing.

This is costing you output, because when the box flexes it absorbs some of the sound waves. Because of that, I brace the larger walls in my designs with either 2" wide strips of MDF or 1.5" wide wooden dowels which can be bought at Home Depot.Sure, they'll give a good peak in output at 50hz, but the low-end will seriously suffer.And who wants their subs to fall on their face when trying to pump out a 30hz note? Because of this, I tune my standard box designs at 33hz and use a generous amount of port area to beef up the low-end response.I've found that tuning in that area is what the average listener is going to want.